Distance: 129km
Elevation: 1.254m
After a great sleep, the day started with a wonderful view of the morning sky.
I wanted to sit outside with a coffee and write, but Hector the giant shepherd dog, wanted love and attention. A lot of it. Eventually, I had to go inside my little eremittage to finish my blog.
Then followed a delicious breakfast and a good conversation with my friend Susie.
Today, I would be heading to the Mediterranean Sea. Following the coastline, it was just 600km remaining to Istanbul.
There was another option to go back to the EuroVelo 13 into Bulgaria but that would have meant at least 3 days more in the saddle.
Also, I liked the Greek hospitality way better than the Bulgarian one.
So, I said goodbye to Susie and Mrs. Reinhard and was on the road by 9:45am.
The landscape was spectacular, a lot of green, rolling hills under a crystal blue sky. There were practically no cars on the road.
The climbing continued for about 30km. Then I met a wild turtle. The first one which I have actually seen. So far, I had only seen signs in Canada. I was so happy.
Carolin mentioned that this was a Caretta Caretta. Finally, I had a great name for my camper van back home.
Also, I came across several snakes today. Each of them about 1m long with greenish-brown skin. They were very fast. Before crossing the road, they would wait at the side hovering to check for vibrations of cars. They were moving, i.e. winding, while remaining on the same place. It looked somewhat scary.
Most probably it was the Balkan Whip Snake according to ChatGPT. If that was true then she was not venomous. I did not want to find out.
Around mid-day, I left the mountain range and went in a long descent into the plains that would eventually lead to the coast.
I found a little tavern with people sitting outside. I was welcomed instantaneously by a lady my age who spoke German with me.
There was no menu but she was explaining to me what was ready in the kitchen. I did not figure out if the tavern was actually open or if this was a family reunion over lunch.
The food was basic yet so delicious. Greek salad, feta cheese, meat balls, and fried potatoes. I felt bad when I realized how much better this tasted compared to the other countries I had visited before.
The owner had worked in Weinheim back in the days. Hence the German. I felt welcome.
The entire family waved as I carried on on my tour.
Full with fresh energy, I cycled through the fields of the coastal plane pushed forward by a strong tailwind. I had so much fun.
The road was a bit tricky here and there. One sandy road was not cyclable for me and I had to turn around. Another part was still flooded from the heavy rain.
But all in all, it was great. I came by signs to Amphipolis. These were younger excavations to find the burial site of Alexander the Great.
In the late afternoon, it was getting close to 30 degrees. I stopped by a small market to buy cold drinks and again was greeted in German.
Thula was the daughter of a Greek “Gastarbeiter” and had been born in Salzgitter. She lived in Germany for the first 28 years of her life. Then she had met her husband when visiting Greece and moved here 20 years ago.
Wie talked about living in Greece and how expensive it all had become. Coffee for example, was more expensive than in Germany. The same was true for housing in big cities like Thessaloniki.
In the countryside people were often better off because they could grow their own fruits and vegetables.
While we talked, locals came in and bought stuff. However, they did not pay. Instead, Thula was making notes and they would pay when they could.
I carried on for the final push of the day. Around 7pm, I finally arrived at the coast.
It had been the second time for me to meet the Mediterranean on this tour. The first time had been on day 2 in Caorle.
I found a campsite but they were geared towards permanent campers. No private tents allowed. Wild camping had been banned by a new law recently and there were no alternatives in reach.
The only option was to stay in one of their tents for 50€ a night. Solid.
I completed my evening routine and was very happy with this day.
After I had gone to bed, I was woken up again around midnight by loud fellow campers. I went over and asked them to be silent. It was a group of Germans.
After the all the countries I had visited the only group of annoying people I had found so far were fellow Germans.
What a lesson.