Day 29 – Sherbrooke to Paqtnkek: slow Day, staying with Jack, Mi‘kmaw Reservation

Distance: 78km

Elevation: 686m

After a calm night, I packed up and chatted with my neighbor who offered me a ride on his pickup to Antigonish. I declined with a big laugh. “Thanks, but these legs want to get there all by themselves” I said.

The weather was beautiful and the wind was gentle. I knew that I had only just under 80km to cover, so I took it slow.

In my mind however there was an unrest. I wanted to make it to the ferry to Newfoundland. I was so close now.

I stopped for lunch at the beautiful Lochiel Lake and enjoyed the view.

Later that day, my speedometer broke. That was not the end of the world but it was a tool that was kind of important for orientation and navigation. Luckily many things can be fixed with duct tape.

During the day, I also received the news that Mathieu, Claudia, and their little daughter had meanwhile reached their destination Halifax. What an achievement!

It was one thing to go long distances alone but it was quite something else to do this with a four year old.

However, it only strengthened my wish to make it to Newfoundland soon.

Around 3pm, I arrived at Jacks place in a reservation of the Mi’kmaw. He was 60, born in the Netherlands, and married to an indigenous woman since close to 30 years. They had an 28 year old son together and were already grandparents.

He spoke good German and wanted to brush it up. So, during the afternoon he told me his live story „auf Deutsch“ while he was making a delicious polenta.

Here is the short version of Jacks life:

• His parents were very cool and trusting. They had taken him on large bike tours through the Netherlands, Belgium, Germany and Uk for vacation when he had still been rather young.
• This had made him become very independent. Also, he described himself as a dreamer and as a bit special, not a mainstream kind of kid.
• When he was 18, Jack did not want to go the army nor did he want to do social service. So he went off the grid for 5 years living by 10€ per week.
• He lived in an Emmaus community, became part of the squatter scene (Hausbesetzer) and moved around living abroad in different countries.
• Due to some experiments with magic mushrooms, Jack had become depressed when he was in his early twenties.
• A friend had make an introduction to a medicine man from the First Nation („Indianer“) from Canada.
• He was fascinated immediately and visited many different bands (Stämme) both in Canada and the US.
• Eventually he met his wife and they started a family and lived in a Mi’kmaw reservation now for over 30 years.
• The reservation had about 600 people and was led by a chief and 6 counselors who were elected by the people.
• When he joined, they only had 50 people as a result of the policy of the Canadian government back then to eradicate indigenous people.
• They considered Jack as one of their own. He also spoke their language a little bit.
• The Mi’kmah had lived on this land meanwhile for over 10,000 years. Still today, many lived from fishing.
• Matter of fact, the band had just bought a fishing station and was operating it now in its own rights.
• Jack and his wife had a small tobacco shop even though he was an avid cyclist and none-smoker.

Jack was wise, a free spirit, and a little crazy.

We laughed a lot and had a good time together. Around 8pm we both were tired and called it a day.

I found it very special to be hosted in a First Nation reservation.