Distance: 135km
Elevation: 202m
I had a yummy breakfast in the winery. Scrambled eggs, ham, cheese, tomatoes, paprika, jam, alvar … hmmm, delicious.
Also, there were six massive wooden tables, all made from different local trees like cherry, ash, walnut, maple, elm etc.
Also the wines on display looked very tempting … unfortunately not an option for long-distance-cyclists who are short on luggage capacity.
After my calls, I was getting ready and cycled on at around 9:15am. The sun was shining from a blue sky, yet it was still chilly.
After just 10km, I crossed the border to Serbia and with that, I left the EU. This was new country number 4 on this tour.
Serbia is in negotiations with the EU to eventually join the Union but with not much progress. Major roadblocks are the relationship of Serbia to Russia, i.e. they are currently not joining the sanctions against Russia. Also, democracy as such seems to be an issue. Also, the missing recognition of Kosovo as an independent country, was a problem.
The border controls here were more serious than at the other borders. My passport got checked and stamped twice and I was asked if I had to declare anything for customs. I did not.
My first impressions as a cyclist on Serbia were positive though. The roads were good, the cars relatively modern with careful drivers, and the nature beautiful.
Yet after 15km, I switched over to Hungary again to meet the Iron Curtain Trail after my little detour from yesterday. Also here, serious border control business.
I made a break at the first Hungarian gas station that I found. It even had a rest area.
My second impression of Hungary was more positive. Yes, people did not smile or greet and yes, there were hardly any villages. Much rather I was cycling through vast amounts of farm land.
But in the villages the infrastructure was actually quite good. Their stores look different from ours. Oftentimes it was just a door in a white wall with a little sign next to it.
Once you entered however, there was a surprising amount of variety to be found.
Hungarian villages look pretty much alike here. They have one main road with all the houses. There are wide ditches on both sides of the road. All houses have dogs guarding the perimeter. They don’t bark for cars but they do bark for cyclists. So, there was always a hell of a noise when I was passing through.
The ICT followed back roads through beautiful nature with little traffic. Roads were straight and level. Sometimes, little gravel parts were also part of it which was a welcome distraction.
Behind me, a rain cloud was building up. Illegally, I want to add because both of my weather apps predicted 0% rain probability.
The cloud did not care and pretty much followed me all day. Very motivating since I was committed to staying dry today.
After about 100km, I reentered Serbia. On my way to the border I cycled along many kilometers of trucks waiting in line. Luckily, I was considered a car in that matter and did not have to wait.
City signs are written in 3 or 4 languages here. Serbian in Cyrillic, Croatian with its many accents, Hungarian and sometimes another language, probably Romanian. It all depends on the minorities living in that town.
When I was crossing through Subotica, the rain cloud had finally caught up and it started to poor. Luckily, there was another gas station and I used the time for a rest and some shopping.
I cycled another 5km to my campsite and found it abandoned. It looked like a lost place and was scary even in daylight. I had forgotten to ask for guidance from above, I recalled.
So, I wished for a nice place with positive encounters and working showers.
On the map, I had found another spot nearby directly by a lake. However, it had questionable reviews. Without any other options at hand, I went there. Also here, there was nobody to be seen. But the gate was unlocked and there was a faded phone number on a wooden board.
I called and a woman answered. She was caught aback when she learned that I was already standing at the gate. “We are not yet prepared for guests” she said. “Everything is still a bit messy but you are welcome to say. You have to find your way around. I will be over in an hour or so”.
I loved the place immediately. A beautiful garden with an old stable and a stone house directly by a lake.
I looked around and actually found showers in the stable. I had to smile. So, I set up camp and went for a shower. The water was icecold but I was still heated up. It was very refreshing.
A little later, Božana came by. She was a dentist and was operating this little campsite as a pastime.
She was very friendly and spoke great English. When I told her that one of my daughters was a dentist, too, she was delighted. Her daughter was, too, and she was waiting for her to take over her clinic. This was why she was still working with almost 70.
She invited to use the house instead of my tent but I gladly refused. She did not want any money from me which was very generous.
So, positive encounters and working shower. Check. I looked up and smiled again.
Božana was looking after her garden while I was having my evening beer.
The sun was already setting when she left. By 9pm I was in bed. This time with my new fleece sweater which was hopefully the much needed game changer.
What a great day again. Thank you, dear God.